Question:

snip lotsa stuff that was really helpful<

Great, thanks.  might take off the stem/bar etc. when I got some free time, but I don’t feel like disconnecting all my crap from it right now.   Toooo much effort for me! (thats right, I’m lazy) Seatpost sounds like a good idea, too.  Like that $1 a gram thing, too, sounds about right! Don’t think I’m gonna have my wheels relaced, although my rear hub is grinding a little bit, still under warantee… if they have to remove it to fix it, I’ll get ‘em to lace it back up with those spokes. I dunno, but something about those avid arch rivalss bend frames, heard a few other people say that too.  But the power…  WOW.  incredible.  I really don’t worry about the braking power so much as the mushy brake feel (only on the rear, doesn’t help that I need to adjust some cables) and the posibility of weakening the frame.  Besides, those moonlighter boosters look cool! (And they’re Titanium!  Anything Ti can’t be bad… right?  Well, ok, but I mean, its Ti….) Everything else sounds good too! And I won’t even recommend a pre-ride enema.

Especially that. =P Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame

Surprised you didn’t recommend getting a lighter Ti frame for just under $700 bux.  about 5 under, at that! Now then, who doesn’t have a sense of humor, destroyer? Jon "I couldn’t survive without a sense of humor with MY last name" Bond

Response:

Anyways, heres the setup I have now, and some changes I’m thinking of making

I have a general rule of "it’s not worth saving weight if it costs over $1 per gram", in most cases.  If you’re made of money or compete a lot, it could be worthwhile to chase some more expensive grams off your bike as well.   Gary Fisher Kaitai ‘99 frame (aluminum) Rock Shox Judy C ‘99 (80mm) Bontrager Corvair rims (asym in back) laced with 15ga DT Spokes to Bontrager Comp 1/comp 2 hubs (2 in back, 2 is better)

Go with 15/17 (1.8 – 1.5) Ritchey or DT spokes.  You’ll save a reasonable amount of weight (about 90g!) and end up with more durable wheels to boot.   Bontrager Cruiser 6061 t6(?) bar Shimano Stx-rc Rapidfire shifters [8 speed] (staying with rapidfire, gripshift annoys my wrists too much) Avid Speed Dial 3.0L Levers (brand spanking new, pretty light) Avid Arch Rival 50 Brakes w/ Moonlighter Ti XC brake boosters (stiff as hell, I love ‘em.  look cool too, and CHEAP!  moonlighter.hypermart.net)  I need the boosters because my frame and fork were flexing out when I cranked on the brake.

Pity… you shouldn’t have to flex a frame / fork to stop a light rider like you.   WTB Dual Density grips (work for me!) no-name stem (think its alum too)

There are some light, cheap stems out there… the Ritchey CompLite or Salsa Moto Ace come to mind.  Hard to say if it’s worth it without knowing shat you have though… threadless aheadset, not gonna change it, it works for me. WTB SST.X (or something like that, hard as a rock) saddle No-name alloy seatpost

Seatposts are a good place to lose some weight.  It’s hard to beat the American Classic alloy post for value.  Light, strong and easy to adjust.  You might even cut some of it off if it’s overly long for your application. Shimano Alivio [cringe] Crankset

Nuttin’ wrong with that crank.  Not that heavy, either. Shimano Alivio [doublecringe] front der. Shimano LX [9 speed] rear der. Shimano Stx-rc or Alivio 8 speed rear cassette

You can save a LOT of weight here with an XT cassette (or even an XTR non-ti cassette).  Probably around 100g, if you get the ones with the big cogs mounted on a common carrier. Shimano something BB (lp27, maybe?  not sure, can’t find the specs anymore, going off similar ‘00 model) Shimano something 8 speed chain WTB Velociraptor tires (2.1s, I think) [thinking of going IRC Mythos XC Kevlar]

You might consider 1.9’s if you’re not doing too much hard-core rock fields.  At your weight, you’ll still have more cush than your bigger buddies on their 2.1’s, and they’ll be a LOT lighter (50-100g each). Alloy pedals with straps [planning on going clipless, maybe get some time atacs?  of the alum sort, maybe?]

There are some killer deals on the SPD clone pedals floating around. I saw someone blowing out Ritchey ti pedals for $40 or some such ridiculous price.  At a real 300g a pair, that’s going to save some serious weight, too (and be a LOT better than straps). I think thats it (quite a list, eh?).  my lil’ comments are quite obvious, I think.  help if you can, any suggestions besides fork, frame, brakes, levers, rims and hubs, basically!  oh, and none of that "loose weight on yourself" crap, like I said before.

And I won’t even recommend a pre-ride enema. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.cynetfl.com/habanero/ Home of the $695 ti frame

Response:

New B/B not ti- they flex and break too easily.

?? We have a few on the track for BMX and have not had a failure … they ARE light:-) and cool … but expensive. The UN72 is a good compromise. Do the Ti B/B’s fatigue after years of use?? And are the failures more than other alternatives?? Or is it just when Ti fails you notice it in the wallet more?? A good wheel set with narrower rims may help also, you are light enough to get away with that. Hate to say this but you gotta spend the money to get the weight down … might I suggest the Atkins Diet;-) s http://boardnbike.com BMX & SK8 board

Response:

Alright if you really want a lighter bike you know you’re gonna have to spend some money, or get the drill out and kill yourself in 6 months time.   I would suggest: New B/B not ti- they flex and break too easily. Nothing wrong with shimano UN72 or whatever the XT equivalent is these days, and they are among the lightest for cro-mo. Also you wanna upgrade your chainset, Middleburn offer a strong and light alternative. If you want really light some pro’s are using a middleburn crank made specially for 9spd which only takes 2 rings – do you really need all 27 gears? Next you should consider a better bar/stem – spend the most you can afford here, it’s not pretty when a stem breaks mid trail/jump (I know). Go on… buy a race face air alloy bar and stem…you know you want to…. Tyres – Mythos are good for XC but you should also consider tioga Fat XC which are a bit more hammerable. have a sense of humour man.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All right, I know these messages have been around before, but I might as well ask again. And, before anyone, and I mean ANYONE even thinks about saying "loose some weight on yourself!" I’m 115# 5′10".  all right?  if anything, I should gain some weight. =) anyways, because of my light weight and very light build (and believe me, I’m not exactly not fit…  I can run a mile in about 6:15 on a reasonably warm day, cold days, I don’t do so good, courtesy of sports related asthma) but the light weight makes it harder for me to push a heavy bike around/up hills/pull bunny hops and such. Also, nothing too expensive.  I’ve got a pretty limited budget, so don’t go telling me new front shox (as soon as I win 1000 bux, I’m getting some marzocchis, but until then, I’m sticking with my RS)  and probably no new rims/hubs, just because I don’t feel like buying new wheelsets for like 200 bux.  Tires and tubes are good to go, tho! Anyways, heres the setup I have now, and some changes I’m thinking of making Gary Fisher Kaitai ‘99 frame (aluminum) Rock Shox Judy C ‘99 (80mm) Bontrager Corvair rims (asym in back) laced with 15ga DT Spokes to Bontrager Comp 1/comp 2 hubs (2 in back, 2 is better) Bontrager Cruiser 6061 t6(?) bar Shimano Stx-rc Rapidfire shifters [8 speed] (staying with rapidfire, gripshift annoys my wrists too much) Avid Speed Dial 3.0L Levers (brand spanking new, pretty light) Avid Arch Rival 50 Brakes w/ Moonlighter Ti XC brake boosters (stiff as hell, I love ‘em.  look cool too, and CHEAP!  moonlighter.hypermart.net) I need the boosters because my frame and fork were flexing out when I cranked on the brake. WTB Dual Density grips (work for me!) no-name stem (think its alum too) threadless aheadset, not gonna change it, it works for me. WTB SST.X (or something like that, hard as a rock) saddle No-name alloy seatpost Shimano Alivio [cringe] Crankset Shimano Alivio [doublecringe] front der. Shimano LX [9 speed] rear der. Shimano Stx-rc or Alivio 8 speed rear cassette Shimano something BB (lp27, maybe?  not sure, can’t find the specs anymore, going off similar ‘00 model) Shimano something 8 speed chain WTB Velociraptor tires (2.1s, I think) [thinking of going IRC Mythos XC Kevlar] Alloy pedals with straps [planning on going clipless, maybe get some time atacs?  of the alum sort, maybe?] I think thats it (quite a list, eh?).  my lil’ comments are quite obvious, I think.  help if you can, any suggestions besides fork, frame, brakes, levers, rims and hubs, basically!  oh, and none of that "loose weight on yourself" crap, like I said before. Thanks! Jon "Commander Twig" Bond

Response:

Unfortunately, the lighter components tend to be expensive, but… The most cost effective weight loss items I see are: Replace your bottom bracket with a lighter one (the LP-27 or other cheap ones are heavy – solid). Best buy is the UN-72. If ya got more money, a good ti one (i.e.: Race Face). While the Velociraptor is a good tire, it is heavy. Not knowing your riding conditions a recommendation is difficult, but good, much lighter tires exist. Some of the lighter tubes also. Englund air cartridges offer weight savings and adjustability. At your weight, I’d venture a guess that your shock is probably too stiff now. The Time pedals are great for muddy conditions, but heavy. Lighter pedals at less cost are around. The best deal I can think of is the Ritchey ti axle ones now on a good sale at Supergo, or Wellgo’s. Other items…. more money. Get a scale. A postal scale is good for components. Look at stem, seatpost, bar, cranks, etc. Then, win the lottery… — Regards, Joe Rutledge – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All right, I know these messages have been around before, but I might as well ask again. And, before anyone, and I mean ANYONE even thinks about saying "loose some weight on yourself!" I’m 115# 5′10".  all right?  if anything, I should gain some weight. =) anyways, because of my light weight and very light build (and believe me, I’m not exactly not fit…  I can run a mile in about 6:15 on a reasonably warm day, cold days, I don’t do so good, courtesy of sports related asthma) but the light weight makes it harder for me to push a heavy bike around/up hills/pull bunny hops and such. Also, nothing too expensive.  I’ve got a pretty limited budget, so don’t go telling me new front shox (as soon as I win 1000 bux, I’m getting some marzocchis, but until then, I’m sticking with my RS)  and probably no new rims/hubs, just because I don’t feel like buying new wheelsets for like 200 bux.  Tires and tubes are good to go, tho! Anyways, heres the setup I have now, and some changes I’m thinking of making Gary Fisher Kaitai ‘99 frame (aluminum) Rock Shox Judy C ‘99 (80mm) Bontrager Corvair rims (asym in back) laced with 15ga DT Spokes to Bontrager Comp 1/comp 2 hubs (2 in back, 2 is better) Bontrager Cruiser 6061 t6(?) bar Shimano Stx-rc Rapidfire shifters [8 speed] (staying with rapidfire, gripshift annoys my wrists too much) Avid Speed Dial 3.0L Levers (brand spanking new, pretty light) Avid Arch Rival 50 Brakes w/ Moonlighter Ti XC brake boosters (stiff as hell, I love ‘em.  look cool too, and CHEAP!  moonlighter.hypermart.net)  I need the boosters because my frame and fork were flexing out when I cranked on the brake. WTB Dual Density grips (work for me!) no-name stem (think its alum too) threadless aheadset, not gonna change it, it works for me. WTB SST.X (or something like that, hard as a rock) saddle No-name alloy seatpost Shimano Alivio [cringe] Crankset Shimano Alivio [doublecringe] front der. Shimano LX [9 speed] rear der. Shimano Stx-rc or Alivio 8 speed rear cassette Shimano something BB (lp27, maybe?  not sure, can’t find the specs anymore, going off similar ‘00 model) Shimano something 8 speed chain WTB Velociraptor tires (2.1s, I think) [thinking of going IRC Mythos XC Kevlar] Alloy pedals with straps [planning on going clipless, maybe get some time atacs?  of the alum sort, maybe?] I think thats it (quite a list, eh?).  my lil’ comments are quite obvious, I think.  help if you can, any suggestions besides fork, frame, brakes, levers, rims and hubs, basically!  oh, and none of that "loose weight on yourself" crap, like I said before. Thanks! Jon "Commander Twig" Bond

Response:

All right, I know these messages have been around before, but I might as well ask again. And, before anyone, and I mean ANYONE even thinks about saying "loose some weight on yourself!" I’m 115# 5′10".  all right?  if anything, I should gain some weight. =) anyways, because of my light weight and very light build (and believe me, I’m not exactly not fit…  I can run a mile in about 6:15 on a reasonably warm day, cold days, I don’t do so good, courtesy of sports related asthma) but the light weight makes it harder for me to push a heavy bike around/up hills/pull bunny hops and such. Also, nothing too expensive.  I’ve got a pretty limited budget, so don’t go telling me new front shox (as soon as I win 1000 bux, I’m getting some marzocchis, but until then, I’m sticking with my RS)  and probably no new rims/hubs, just because I don’t feel like buying new wheelsets for like 200 bux.  Tires and tubes are good to go, tho! Anyways, heres the setup I have now, and some changes I’m thinking of making Gary Fisher Kaitai ‘99 frame (aluminum) Rock Shox Judy C ‘99 (80mm) Bontrager Corvair rims (asym in back) laced with 15ga DT Spokes to Bontrager Comp 1/comp 2 hubs (2 in back, 2 is better) Bontrager Cruiser 6061 t6(?) bar Shimano Stx-rc Rapidfire shifters [8 speed] (staying with rapidfire, gripshift annoys my wrists too much) Avid Speed Dial 3.0L Levers (brand spanking new, pretty light) Avid Arch Rival 50 Brakes w/ Moonlighter Ti XC brake boosters (stiff as hell, I love ‘em.  look cool too, and CHEAP!  moonlighter.hypermart.net)  I need the boosters because my frame and fork were flexing out when I cranked on the brake. WTB Dual Density grips (work for me!) no-name stem (think its alum too) threadless aheadset, not gonna change it, it works for me. WTB SST.X (or something like that, hard as a rock) saddle No-name alloy seatpost Shimano Alivio [cringe] Crankset Shimano Alivio [doublecringe] front der. Shimano LX [9 speed] rear der. Shimano Stx-rc or Alivio 8 speed rear cassette Shimano something BB (lp27, maybe?  not sure, can’t find the specs anymore, going off similar ‘00 model) Shimano something 8 speed chain WTB Velociraptor tires (2.1s, I think) [thinking of going IRC Mythos XC Kevlar] Alloy pedals with straps [planning on going clipless, maybe get some time atacs?  of the alum sort, maybe?] I think thats it (quite a list, eh?).  my lil’ comments are quite obvious, I think.  help if you can, any suggestions besides fork, frame, brakes, levers, rims and hubs, basically!  oh, and none of that "loose weight on yourself" crap, like I said before. Thanks! Jon "Commander Twig" Bond

Response:

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